Walk-in closets
A walk-in closet is a room, so Valmont plans it as one: circulation first, then the runs around it. We set the walking width, place the tall units and drawer banks where they clear the door swing, and only then decide on an island or a bench. Boxes, fronts and drawer boxes are made and dry-fitted in our own shop before delivery.
On the drawings, and on the quote.
- 01A plan view and elevations for every wall, plus a photorealistic rendering
- 02Double-hang and long-hang runs sized to the room, not to a standard
- 03Drawer banks with soft-close runners and finished drawer interiors
- 04Glass fronted or open display sections where you want to see the contents
- 05An island or bench with drawers, where the walking width allows
- 06Cabinet lighting wired in the shop, with the electrician making the final connection
No figures published. The drivers, in order.
| Driver | What we look at |
|---|---|
| Room size and walking width | The clear space between runs decides whether an island fits at all, and an island is its own cabinet with its own top. |
| Wall count and returns | A three wall or four wall fit-out means more corners, more fillers and more scribing than two facing runs. |
| Glass, mirror and display fronts | Glass fronts need a frame door, a rebate and glazing, so they run ahead of a plain slab front on both material and labour. |
| Lighting in the cabinetry | Lit shelves and rails need channels routed, wiring run and a driver location agreed before the boxes leave the shop. |
The quote is itemized from the drawings, one line per run, so the island and the glass fronts can be priced in or out without redoing the whole layout. Read the cost guide.
Measure, draw, quote, build, install.
The five steps in full, with the walkthrough you see before we build.
Step 01 is a measure of the whole room, including the door swing, the window, the vent and the switch. We ask what has to be visible and what can be behind a door. Step 02 comes back as a plan, elevations for each wall and a photorealistic rendering, typically inside [n] days, so the circulation is settled on paper.
Step 03 is an itemized quote written off those drawings, one line per run and one for the island. Step 04 is shop build: we cut, edge and finish every box, door and drawer front, wire the cabinet lighting, and dry-fit each run on the bench so the reveals are already right. Allow [n] weeks.
Step 05 is delivery and install. Runs go in against the walls first, the island lands last, and the crew scribes, levels and adjusts until every gap matches. The electrician connects the lighting. Install on a full walk-in is [n] days, with a return visit to adjust hinges and runners after use.
Asked before the first call.
How much clear space does an island need?
Enough to open a drawer and still pass behind it comfortably. We check that at the measure and show the walking width in the plan at step 02. If the room is tight, a shallow bench with drawers under it usually does the same job.
Can you fit a walk-in without touching the existing door?
Usually yes. We plan the runs around the swing so nothing fouls the door. If the swing is eating the best wall, we will say so at the measure and note what a change would involve, including work outside our scope.
What goes behind glass fronts?
Handbags, watches and folded knitwear are the usual answer, because glass turns a shelf into display. We keep glass to a section or two rather than a whole run, so daily clothing stays behind a solid front and the room still reads calm.
Do I need a dedicated circuit for the closet lighting?
The wiring inside the cabinetry is done in our shop, but the supply and the switching are the electrician's call. [Kam confirms the driver location and circuit with your electrician before the boxes are built.]
Can a walk-in be built in stages?
Yes. Because the quote is itemized by run, some clients build the hanging walls first and add the island or the glass display section later. The drawings stay on file so the second stage matches the first in finish and reveal.